Tai Lue Ethnic Textile Patterns: Semiotics and Social Role A Case Study of Tai Lue, Chiang Kham, Phayao

Abstract

The main purposes of this article are 1) to study fabric patterns through semiotic approaches 2) to analyze the societal role of Tai Lue fabric patterns through the fabric culture of an ethnic group called Tai Lue people in Chiang Kham whose woven patterns are rather prominent in relation to their lifestyle, beliefs, culture, traditions, and social roles. Therefore, Tai Lue weave pattern is considered a symbol upon which reflects various ideas through their practical functions. The process of studying relevant literature and collecting data includes observation, photography and conducting in-depth interviews with experts in the area of Tai Lue, Chiang Kham textiles, namely Mae Kru and 5 professional weavers. Additionally, Ferdinand de Saussure's Semiotic Theory and Roland Barthes' Mythologies along with 3 functional principles of Lewis Binford are the main frameworks used to analyze the obtained data. The results of the study revealed that the patterns of Tai Lue Chiang Kham woven fabrics are divided into 5 groups: 1) geometric patterns, 2) botanical patterns, 3) animal and mythical animal patterns, 4) temple offerings’ patterns, and 5) architectural patterns which mirror the beliefs that have been generationally inherited in terms of the utility of the products which are able to be classified through the context of using the fabric in 3 ways: 1) for religion and worshiping, 2) for using, and 3) for dressing. Finally, the results of this study provide a guideline that allows readers to comprehend the beliefs which can affect the landscape and lifestyle of people through the fabric pattern of each culture.